TPU · Rubber that Prints

TPU - Prints that bounce back.

TPU is flexible 3D-printing filament made of thermoplastic rubber that stretches, grips, absorbs impact, and returns to shape. It's how you print phone cases that actually protect, watch straps that feel right, gaskets that seal, and wheels that don't chatter. Fussier to print than PLA, but the only filament that does what it does.

580%
Elongation at break
60A–95A
Shore hardness range
98%
Compression recovery
Red TPU filament spool — side view
EconoFil red TPU spool with 3D-printed logo
Rigid prints feel wrong?That's TPU's cue. Bends, stretches, and snaps right back like the part should.
TPU we carry
POLYMAKER NinjaTek EconoFil™
§ 01 - What is TPU?

Rubber you can print. Really.

TPU stands for Thermoplastic Polyurethane, a block copolymer of hard and soft segments that behaves like rubber at room temperature but melts and extrudes like plastic. You can stretch a printed part to more than 2× its length and watch it snap back unharmed. It prints on any FDM machine with a direct-drive extruder, and some Bowden setups too.

TPU is sold by Shore hardnes, the same scale shoe soles and tyres use. 95A (think skateboard wheel) is stiff enough for gaskets and phone cases and still prints fast. 85A (think pencil eraser) is properly flexible, think watch straps, grips, compliant hinges. 75A and below gets into silicone territory: very soft, very slow, very demanding.

The catch? Two things. Speed: TPU wants to be printed slowly (20–40 mm/s), because the filament itself is elastic and compresses inside the hotend. And Bowden tubes: the soft filament buckles in long tubes. Direct-drive extruders just work.

TPU is the filament people give up on twice and then refuse to live without. Slow it down, go direct-drive, and you unlock a whole category of parts no rigid plastic can touch.
— Mateo, applications lead @ Filaments.ca
§ 02 - Key properties

The numbers that make TPU, TPU.

Typical 95A TPU across the brands we stock. Measured on a direct-drive Bambu X1C with a 0.4 mm nozzle at 0.2 mm layer height, 30 mm/s - individual brands and durometers vary considerably.

Shore hardness
95A
Skateboard-wheel stiff
Elongation at break
580%
Stretches ~6× before tearing
Abrasion resistance
25mm³
Taber H-22 — outlasts ABS 4×
Print speed
30mm/s
Slow is fast — TPU compresses
§ 03 - Use cases

Where TPU earns its keep and where it doesn’t.

Reach for TPU Ideal

Anywhere a part has to flex, grip, absorb, or seal.

  • Phone cases & protective coversThe real reason most makers buy their first TPU spool. Bumpers absorb drops, buttons click properly, edges grip the hand.
  • Watch straps, grips, handles95A prints comfortably against skin. Colour-match your tool handles, camera grips, or bike bar-ends.
  • Gaskets, seals, bushingsReplace obsolete rubber parts: appliance gaskets, o-rings, vibration isolators. Solid and flexible where it counts.
  • Wheels & tyres for small robotsRovers, combat bots, RC drift cars. Grip on carpet, dampen chatter, and outlast ABS 4× on abrasive surfaces.
  • Shoe soles, insoles, prostheticsMedical-grade TPU (Polymaker PolyFlex, NinjaTek Chinchilla) is skin-safe, washable, and models directly to foot scans.

Skip TPU Not ideal

When rigidity, heat, or a quick print are the priority, reach for something else.

  • Rigid, load-bearing partsIf it needs to hold a screw or resist bending, TPU will creep and deform. Use PLA+, PETG, or PA-CF.
  • Tall, unsupported printsTPU slumps and wobbles on overhangs. Keep parts low, wide, and well-supported or split and glue.
  • Bowden printers with long tubesThe soft filament buckles between the extruder and the hotend. Convert to direct-drive or stay ≥ 95A & very slow.
  • Anything you need quicklyA TPU phone case takes 4–6 hours. There is no “fast TPU.” Plan accordingly.
§ 04 - Shore hardness

Pick the right durometer for the job.

TPU hardness is measured on the Shore A scale, the same system used for car tires, shoe soles, and pencil erasers. Lower number = softer = more flexible, but also slower and fussier to print. Most “TPU” you’ll see online is 95A; the softer grades are a different beast entirely.

95A the everyday TPU Start here

Think skateboard wheel. Flexible enough to be useful, stiff enough to print on almost any machine.

  • Phone cases & bumpersPerfect durometer: grip, cushion, and enough stiffness to click buttons through.
  • Gaskets, seals, plugsHolds a shape, compresses and recovers. Industry-standard for replacement o-rings.
  • Prints at 25–40 mm/sBowden-friendly with tuning. Direct-drive is still better but not required.
  • Most stocked coloursEvery brand we carry has a 95A line. Cheapest TPU per kg at the EconoFil tier.

85A and below, the soft stuff Advanced

Properly squishy. Huge flex, huge headaches. Direct-drive only, and pack your patience.

  • Watch straps, grips, compliant hinges85A feels like a pencil eraser. Bends comfortably across 180° without creasing.
  • Prosthetics, foot orthosesNinjaTek Chinchilla (75A) is the standard for compliant medical prints.
  • Print at 15–20 mm/s, direct-driveToo fast and the filament compresses like a spring. Slow and steady wins.
  • Expect a learning curveFirst few prints will stringy, squish, or jam. Retraction near 0, linear advance tuned, minimal fan.
Rule of thumb
If you’ve never printed TPU before, start with 95A on a direct-drive printer. Slow to 30 mm/s, retraction to 2 mm max, fan at 30%. Nine out of ten “TPU doesn’t work on my printer” threads are someone trying to print 85A on a Bowden at 60 mm/s.
§ 05 - TPU vs. other filaments

Which filament should you choose?

A straight comparison across the materials we stock. If your part has to flex, grip, or bounce: TPU is the only filament that will do the job. Nothing else is even close.

Our pick for flexible partsTPU PLA PETG ABS Silicone (cast)
Ease of printingbeginner-friendliness
Flexibilitystretch, compress, bend
Impact absorptiondrops, vibration, shock
Abrasion resistancerubbing, sliding wear
Price per kgour EconoFil tier $24.99 $12.69 $16.99 $18.49 $80+ / kg
Best for Flex, grip, cushion, seal Indoor, detail, beginners Outdoor, water, mechanical Automotive interior, tough Ultra-soft moulded parts
TL;DR TPU is the only filament that stretches. For flex, grip, cushioning, or seal-making, nothing else on this table is a substitute. Print slow, go direct-drive, and accept that a phone case takes five hours - the result is worth it.
§ 06 - Print settings

Slow it down, go direct-drive.

Starting settings for 95A on a direct-drive printer. The two things that matter most for TPU: go slow (TPU compresses if you push it), and cut retraction to almost zero (long retracts bend the filament and jam).

Recommended Cura and Orca Settings
Nozzle
230°C
210–240 °C
Bed
50°C
40–60 °C, no glue
Speed
30mm/s
15–40 — slower for softer
Retract
2mm
direct-drive, 40 mm/s
§ 07 - FAQ

Questions we actually get asked.

Can I print TPU on a Bowden printer (Ender 3, etc.)?
With 95A TPU and some patience, yes, but you’ll fight it. The soft filament flexes between the extruder gear and the hotend, causing skipped steps and inconsistent extrusion. Tighten the tension on the extruder just enough to grip without biting, shorten the PTFE tube, cap speed at 20 mm/s, set retraction to 1 mm. For 85A or softer, don’t bother, convert to direct-drive.
Why is my TPU stringing and blobbing?
Two culprits, almost always. First, the filament is wet, TPU is the most hygroscopic common plastic and absorbs moisture in days. Run it through a filament dryer at 50°C for 6–8 hours before printing. Second, retraction is too aggressive: drop to 1–2 mm at 30–40 mm/s for direct-drive, and consider enabling coasting in your slicer.
What Shore hardness should I start with?
95A is the sweet spot for first-time TPU printers. It’s firm enough to print like a regular filament (no extruder retuning needed on most direct-drive machines) but flexible enough to feel rubbery in your hand. Once you’re comfortable, drop to 85A for grippier phone cases and watch straps, or step up to 98A for parts that need to hold a shape.
Does TPU need a heated bed?
A warm bed helps but isn’t strictly required. 50°C on a textured PEI plate gives a bond strong enough to print without warping but weak enough that the part pops off when cool. Skip glue sticks and hairspray, TPU bonds too well to those and you’ll tear chunks out of your build sheet.
Is TPU skin-safe for watch straps?
The base TPU polymer is biocompatible and used in medical devices. That said, no consumer 3D printing filament carries skin-contact certification (the certification is on the cured part, not the raw spool). Our customers print watch straps and grips daily without issue, but if you have sensitive skin, test a small patch first.
How do I keep TPU dry in storage?
Vacuum-sealed bag with a fresh 50g silica desiccant pack, the moment you take it off the printer. TPU goes from print-ready to stringy in 48 hours of humid Canadian air. If a spool sits out and starts to misbehave, dry it at 50°C for 6–8 hours and it’ll come back like new. We sell a $35 dryer that pays for itself by the third spool.
What’s the difference between TPU, TPE, and silicone?
TPU is a thermoplastic polyurethane, prints on any FDM machine, and lands at 60A–98A on the Shore scale. TPE is a softer thermoplastic elastomer, harder to print (very floppy), and only worth it for parts that need to feel like rubber. Silicone isn’t thermoplastic at all and can’t be FDM-printed, you’d need a specialised resin printer or a casting workflow.
Can I glue or bond printed TPU parts?
Yes, with the right adhesive. Cyanoacrylate (super glue) works for small bonds. For structural joins, use a flexible adhesive like Loctite 401 or a polyurethane glue. Avoid epoxy on TPU, the rigid epoxy cracks off when the TPU flexes. The cleanest method is to redesign the part to print as one piece.

First TPU spool? We’ll help you pick the right hardness.

Tell us what you’re making; a phone case, gasket, watch strap and which printer you’re running. We’ll recommend a durometer and a starting profile. No upselling, just honest answers from people who print TPU daily.